Deer Valley, Utah
Imagine waking up on the East Coast, and making tracks in deep Utah powder by
noon. This is no dream, this is the reality of a Park City ski trip. Even
better, your first ski day is free with a Quick Start voucher from the
Park City Chamber, you
can be catching freshies at Deer Valley, The Canyons or Park City Mountain all
afternoon.
Greg
& I hopped an early Delta flight out of Logan, and by 12:30pm Utah time we had
ridden two high speed lifts to 9,400-feet and we were floating on a foot of
fresh powder on Deer Valley’s signature Stein’s Run. With a direct flight to
Salt Lake City airport, Park City’s three major ski resorts are just a 30-minute
drive, so you can be clicking into your skis by noon. We had our ski boots and
ski clothing handy for a quick change, and rented skis and poles from
SkiButlers.com (instead
of lugging our own across the country). Ski Butlers met us at
The Lodges at Deer
Valley (pictured above), and in five swift minutes, we were dialed in for six days of skiing. To
say things were clicking would be an understatement.
We started our five night /six ski day Utah odyssey at
Deer Valley - “the
fairest of them all” in any skier’s storybook. Deer Valley is everything you
have heard about; rated the #1 resort by Ski Magazine readers, four and five
diamond lodging, award-winning on mountain cuisine, ski valets that carry your
skis from your car. Deer Valley is posh, almost like a private ski club –
snowboarders are not allowed and lift ticket sales are limited to 6,500 a day to
assure everyone has a seat in their lodges. What’s not limited is the terrain,
with five separate peaks spreading over 2,026 acres, 3,000-vertical served by 22
lifts including 11 high-speed quads and a leather-upholstered gondola.
Our first afternoon, we found gorgeous groomed cruisers off Bald and Flagstaff
Mountains, and powder-filled Aspen groves in Triangle Trees. A typical travel
day you get weary from jet lag, airport shuffles and check in lines – not so on
this day – we were fatigued from high altitude air, too many turns, and too many
temptations at the extravagant Seafood Buffet dinner to finish our Deer Valley
day.
Our condominium lodging at the
Silver Baron was perfectly appointed; they call it rustic mountain
living but I call it refined with leather furnishings, stone fireplace, fluffy
robes and our own private hot tub on our deck ( I told you Deer Valley does it
right!). At our whim, a shuttle would take us to the slopes, or to the
fabulously funky Main Street of Park City.
Day
two, we were on the Silver Lake Express by 8:45am, (tip: this base lift opens 15
minutes early to get you to the upper mountain in time for official 9am
opening). Deer Valley lays out the white carpet each night (while you rest in
high thread count beds), catering to the Bogner wearing real estate buying
clientele. I dare say Deer Valley’s groomer are almost as good as
Sunday
River’s, we compared as we crushed cord on long trails like Hidden Treasure
and Legal Tender named for the silver discovered in these mountains in 1868.
Deer Valley slopes coined over $400 million in silver, today the gold rush is in
real estate, as magnificent mountain mansions hug the hillsides of the buffed
slopes.
Empire
Canyon is Deer Valley at its peaks, 9,570’, here in Daly’s Bowl this pampered
paradise gets double black steep with chutes and tremendous tree stashes which I
can’t share as I have been sworn to secrecy (hint: ask a local).
Now a confession about my
love of skiing and Deer Valley: the more you ski the more you can indulge in
Deer Valley’s fine food. The best burger I have ever encountered is made with
Chipotle at Royal Street Café. Or you can ski to the delightful Austrian lodge,
The Goldener Hirsch,
for the finest cheese fondue lunch. For après ski toddies and treats,
Stein Eriksen’s Lodge is the 5-star place to be seen, you may even see the legendary Olympic Gold
medalist Stein himself, he celebrated 80 this year, still serving as Deer
Valley’s director of skiing since the resort opened in 1981.
For a long leisurely finale, we skied down to Deer Valley’s Jordanelle Gondola,
which we called a “real estate run” as you ski over and under expansive snow
bridges built solely to access enormous elegant ski chalets, including the Ski
Magazine Dream Home. Second homes are booming in Utah, and luxurious hotels by
St Regis and Montage are both under construction on these slopes. Deer Valley is
the trail map out of “lifestyles of the rich and famous” but you can have your
moment of fame as you ski this posh upscale downhill resort.
Park City Mountain
Resort was next on our three resort tour. In fact, Deer Valley abuts Park
City, which borders The Canyons – but ducking the rope is a no-no.
Park City’s ski area emanates from downtown, making it a popular choice. The US
Ski and Snowboard teams train on the front side, but there is plenty more to
explore among seven peaks. Park City is the busiest area (no ticket sale limits
or snowboard restrictions here) but with 4 high speed-six pack lifts, Park City
spreads people out over the 3,300 acres and 9 bowls of terrain, including the hardcore terrain of Jupiter Bowl, at 10,026’
and McConkey’s.
“The Motherlode” on the Front Side offers pleasant well-spaced aspens on
perfectly-pitched Fool’s Gold and Glory Hole to conclude your Park City ski day. Park City stays open till 7:30pm for twilight skiing and riding, but with such a
fantastic town at the base, I found après ski took precedence.
Strolling
by western boutiques and saloon-inspired eateries in Park City’s Old Town, it’s
easy to picture the 1868 Frontier town. But I cannot imagine Main Street during
Sundance, when 60,000 Hollywood heroes and wannabes descend for the 2nd largest
film festival in the world. Tip: the ski slopes are empty during Sundance Film
Festival’s parties and premiers in late January.
We had a fantastic dinner at Fin, a swank seafood restaurant in the new art-deco
Sky Lodge. Next door is
Zoom, Robert Redford’s place if you are into star memorabilia. Non-skiers could
have serious fun in Park City, shopping, touring the historic silver mining
spots, and meeting their ski friends for a slopeside lunch.
Saving
the biggest for last, our final two days we conquered the vast
The Canyons, all 3,700
acres – the largest single ski resort in Utah. The Flight of the
Canyons gondola gets you to mid-mountain where you have
eight unique peaks to explore.
Deer Valley is definitely our favorite, but its fun to compare and contrast by
skiing Park City and The Canyons too. Skiers that want to ski waist-deep Utah pow, trademarked “the greatest
snow earth,” should make their way to Park City - one fun town, three
world-class resorts, all within a half hour of airplane touchdown. By skiing on
your arrival and departure day – you can hit all three: Deer Valley,
Park City and
The Canyons.
Sorry - Sworn to Secrecy on this Deer Valley Powder Stash