Montana
is not usually lead conversation in skiing circles. It is more of a fly-fishing,
bison chasing, bighorn sheep-spotting kind of state. We told friends we were
taking the family skiing in Montana, and they gave us that peculiar cocked-head
puppy look.
As we flew into Denver, all the skiing families deplaned on their way to the
bustling strip of Colorado ski areas. We received more bizarre looks as we told
our new in-flight friends we were headed to another gate to catch a puddle
jumper to Bozeman.
Perhaps that is what makes Big Sky Montana such an intriguing ski destination – it is still a pretty
big secret amongst schussers. They call it the last, best place.
I was hooked on Montana since I had heard the free for kids promotion. Big Sky
is big on families. Not only do kids 10 and under ski free (and stay free on
certain lodging packages), Kids’ Club is a free daily après ski program of the
arts and crafts, games, s’mores and face-painting ilk. All this and its
proximity to Yellowstone National Park made it a must see and ski destination
for us.
This
southern Montana ski resort, 45 miles from Bozeman airport, was started in 1973
by news anchor Chet Huntley. While Huntley was no skier, he saw the potential of
this stunningly beautiful Montana mountain range, particularly 11,166-foot Lone
Peak that resembles the dramatic Matterhorn of Zermatt.
The Summit Hotel at the base of Big Sky is the place to stay – location and luxe
(the most expensive building in Montana). I enjoyed watching the cowboy clad
bellhops lug our gear to our elegant western-themed suite.
My husband could keep an eagle eye on the slopes from our 8th floor room. Our
kids quickly found the hotel’s outdoor heated pool. From our prime spot, we were
an easy stroll to the resort’s dozen shops and restaurants – and of course the
lifts.
While we found the resort village to be
compact and limited in its offerings, Big Sky’s skiing is huge. With 3,600 acres
of skiing and 18 lifts, there was more than enough space for our week of
adventure, and amazing views as far as Wyoming’s Grand Tetons to keep us
visually stimulated. Big Sky now shares terrain with neighboring
Moonlight Basin, making it the biggest skiing in the country with over 5,500 acres
and 27 lifts.
With all this Big Sky skiing, plus elevations of 11,000-feet, our family got a
bit winded and weary. Taking a day off the slopes to take in the phenomenal
sites of Yellowstone is a must.
Daily snow
coaches leave the resort for full day tours. Our witty and engaging guide
Dave explained that the vast majority of the three million annual tourists flow
through Yellowstone in the summer. We found the Park spectacular blanketed in
sparkling snow, with the bonus of easier tracking of wildlife (and dramatically
reduced pesky humans about).
From
the comforts of our snow coach van, we spotted big horn sheep, elk, bison (the
proper name for buffalo in North America), coyotes, and eagles. Our lunch stop
was well timed to Old Faithful’s exciting eruption. It was education meets
recreation as Dave walked us around dozens of steaming geysers, aqua colored
thermals, and the quirky bubbling mud pots.
If you prefer, you can snowmobile Yellowstone, but don’t expect to buzz around
solo on your sled. Snowmobiles are herded single file behind a guide and
governed to pokey speeds along the Park roads. Only the wild animals roam
freely, nature’s justice.
After
a day of bison counting, followed by bison eating at Montanans’ favorite eatery
Buck’s T-4, we were primed
to ram-charge down the slopes of Big Sky again.
My husband had heard the adrenaline accolades,
that Big Sky has the second longest vertical in North America at 4,350-feet,
(short of Aspen’s Snowmass). He was lured by the Lone Peak Tram, a 15-passenger
cable car to the pointy beacon of Big Sky where the air is thin, and ski options
include spacious bowls off the backside, nearly perpendicular chutes down the
flank, or the infamous Big Couloir straight down the mighty face – whispered
among ski fanatics as simply “The Big.
Even though a few members of our family (I
will not name names) were nervous about the steep and deep, we took the ride up
the nail-biting summit lift. We assured the kids that anyone could ride back
down in safety. Disney’s tower of terror has nothing on this ascent, which
resembles an elevator shaft up a craggy snow-capped corridor.
Amazingly,
the kids were gung-ho at the top to ski Liberty Bowl – bravery and bonding in
Montana for our sea-level living family from Maine.
Another thrill is the aptly named Challenger chair (without safety bars -
yikes), where the core locals “hang.” Don’t be intimidated by all this extreme
talk, Big Sky had actually long been nicknamed “Blue Square,” before the
addition of these aforementioned lifts in recent years. We found plenty of
gentle cruisers served by high-speed lifts and a gondola just steps from our
hotel. Big Sky also offers a topnotch ski school for pointers or all-day ski
camps for the kids.
We met ski movie magnate Warren Miller at Big Sky. When I gathered my courage to
speak to the famous filmmaker, I managed a two-word question, “Why Montana?”
Miller replied in his iconoclast voice, “I was finding Colorado was just getting
too crowded for skiing. Montana is where I like to ski now.”
I should mention that while Montana’s outdoors is wild and rugged, the nightlife
is tamer. When our kids were amused in the pool or at an organized Kids’ Club
activity, Greg and I could saddle up to the Carabiner bar to unbuckle and unwind
with Moose Drool micro brew and buffalo empanadas. We listened to good local
talent, while we toasted ourselves for roaming to Montana with our posse.
Whether
it was the groomed cruising of Elk Park for me, big bumps on Crazy Raven for the
kids, or the steeps of the Dictator Chutes for my mate – Big Sky made a big
impression on our ski family.
John Steinbeck wrote in Travels with Charley,
“Montana has the kind of mountains I’d create if mountains were on my agenda.”
If Steinbeck had been a skier, I think a ski vacation at Big Sky would have been
on his agenda.